The Bulgarian border guards didn't speak English. They also didn't understood why I was sent back. It gave me some courage to at least get my backpack back. When I saw 2 more people on the Turkish side I decided to walk back and give it a try. The baksheesh border cop was human enough to walk with me to the gathering of Turkish truckers dealing with bureaucracy. I hadn't taken Ahmet's phone number, I just knew his truck was yellow. There seemed to be 100s of trucks. And I couldn't recognize Ahmet among the truckers. The baksheesh cop said (in Turkish and body language) that my truck